Cost of Living, Part 1

Ever wonder if it’s really cheaper to live in Ecuador than the U.S.?  After nine months, the answer is, “yes . . . and no.” Some things are cheaper: medical expenses, rent, utilities, tropical fruit, services (maids, haircuts, clothes mending, custom furniture), and public transportation. Anything imported is more expensive:  vehicles, electronics, and foods or household supplies. Some things, such as travel or eating out, can be more or less depending on whether you choose simple or fancy. Here’s a sampling of expenses based on our experience in Quito:

  • Rent
    • $225/month    Tiny two-bedroom apartment in Carcelén (about 1/2 hour by bus from the Reach Beyond office)
    • $500-700/month     Average two or three-bedroom apartment in Granda Centeno district (easy walk to office)
    • $700/month      Tiny two-bedroom apartment in Quito Tenis (easy walk to office)
    • $150-300/month   Shared rental with private bath and utilities (varies widely by neighborhood and apartment)
  • Utilities (we are two adults in large apartment, showers every day, two to three loads of laundry per week)
    • $35/month    Electricity, garbage, and street lights
    • $5-10/month    Water, sewage and storm water fees
    • $2-3/month    Gas for hot water, dryer, and kitchen stove (currently subsidized by the government) (without subsidy would probably be $20-25/month)
    • $45/month    Internet, probably on the slower end of the spectrum
    • $5-10/month    Land phone line (but you have to be a resident to get one–we don’t have one)
    • $5+/month    Cell phone charges vary tremendously (we have prepaid cell phones without data plans and typically pay less than $5/month each).
  • Personal Services
    • $100-150/month    Housecleaning maid (1 day/week); we don’t have one
    • $5-7    Scott’s haircut (although you could spend a lot more)
    • $2-5    Mending or minor clothes alterations
  • Transportation
    • $1.50 minimum    Taxi (probably two miles or so in light traffic)
    • $.25/ride    City bus or rapid transit bus (half-price for tercera edad, or “third age,” i.e., 65 and older)
    • $1-1.50 per hour    Longer distance bus trips (also half-price for tercera edad)
  • Meals Out & Travel 
    • $2.50    Lunch (soup, choice of two or three entrees, small dessert, and watered-down juice–not fancy but fills you up)
    • Same as in U.S.    Subway, Burger King, McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Tony Roma’s, and many other familiar restaurants
    • $15/night/person    Our rustic hostel in Chugchilán, which included a room with private bath, breakfast, and dinner
    • $100/night/person    A jungle resort I heard of, which includes all meals and many tourist activities
  • Health Care (Separate post coming soon)

For our friends living in other Latin American countries, how does our experience compare with yours?

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When You Give a Stranger Your Camera

On the Pichincha ridge high above Quito we asked a random passer-by to take a photo of the three of us.  Being creative, he lifted the camera high above his head to get more of Quito in the background.  What we didn’t realize until later was that he was pressing the Video button rather than the Photo button.  What followed is a bit funny:

First Try:

Second Try:

 And finally a photo!

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Simon’s Visit

Our first U.S. visitor was our son, Simon, who came for three weeks in May.  Here are some photos from his visit.

Papallacta

Otovalo

Pichincha & the Teleférico

Pichincha is a volcanic ridge to the west of Quito–our apartment is on its lower flanks.  Simon’s last day we rode a gondola up about 4,000 feet for some great views of Quito’s long valley.  It’s hard to breathe up at 13,000 feet, even if you’ve been here awhile!

And here’s Simon’s video from Pichincha, mostly to the north and east.  These are the moountains we see from our apartment–love them!

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Quilotoa & Chugchilán

Our monthly get-out-of-Quito trip in April was to Lake Quilotoa, a crater lake 171 kilometers (106 miles) away.  We stayed two nights in a hostel in Chugchilán, one of the villages close to the lake.

Our trip there involved 1) walking to the closest Trole station (one of Quito’s three mass-transit bus lines), 2) an hour ride to Quito’s southern terminal at Quitumbe, 3) about an hour bus ride south to Latacunga, and 4) an almost four-hour bus ride to Chugchilán–about seven hours in all.  The scenery was worthy of a tour bus as we wound from one small town to another on precipitous and curvy mountain roads.

We stayed at the Hostal Cloud Forest, a way station on a multi-day trail loop through Quilotoa, Chugchilán, and other small Andean villages, which provides bed, breakfast, and dinner for $15/night/person.

Meals were a chance to chat with other guests, mostly backpackers.  Our first night we ate dinner with a couple about our age from Grenoble, France.  They are sailing from the Canary Islands to Polynesia, where they plan to live six months each year on their boat and return to France for the other six months.

The next morning we nearly missed our bus to Quilotoa; we were told it would leave at 5 a.m. but at 4:50 it was pulling away with us running after it!  We chose the 5 a.m. bus ($2) over hiring a taxi later in the morning ($25), but we’re not sure we would do it again; we huddled for a couple of hours until the sun came up and Jody found a café and some hot tea.  She thawed her feet while Scott hiked the 1,000 feet down and back from the lake.

About 9 a.m. we headed back to Chugchilán, following a trail about halfway around the crater rim, then descending to a Quichua village (Guayama San Pedro).  The trail then plummeted down a steep ravine, through huge slabs of rock, to the the Tochi River.

After crossing the river we hiked up to Chugchilán and our hostel, arriving about 2 p.m.  The hike back was about 12 km (8 miles)–900 meters of descent and 400 meters of climbing–strenuous but beautiful.

Sunday morning we bused back to Latacunga via Zumbahua (only two hours, but still on precipitous mountain roads), then reversed our Friday trip:  Latacunga to Quitumbe to our Trole stop and home, about 5-1/2 hours.

Here are some photographs:

Latacunga & Chugchilán

Lake Quilotoa & the Rim Hike

Guayama & the Tochi River Canyon

Heading Home

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Facebook: January-April 2015

For me (Jody), posting on Facebook is so much easier than blogging, so you can guess what I do when I have some random happening to share!  So I’m going to cheat and use some of my Facebook posts and photos to catch up the blog.  My apologies to Facebook friends who have seen all this before.

December 31, 2014


Scott 2014.12.31

New Year’s eve in our new apartment. First night here. Fireworks outside but Scott was up at 4 a.m. for an inventory observation and he’s sound asleep. 

January 1, 2015

And we’re moved! Out of the housesitting apartment and into the new apartment–we’re really blessed.

(later same day)

Well, that was a decisive win. Listened via internet to the first half (of the Rose Bowl) and then watched via Skype & listened via internet for the second half. The internet was about 90 seconds behind the TV, so it was a bit challenging at times. And chatted with Vjera Thompson during commercials. Fun!  (University of Oregon Duck football win against Florida State)

January 11, 2015

We’re back from a weekend trip to Papallacta, where it was cold and rainy and windy, although with big, steep, green mountains. A bit like the Oregon coast in weather and green, only the mountains were on a larger scale. So chilly it was hard to believe it was the same country. Our bare-bones guest house had a hot springs right outside the door–wonderful! And so quiet. But it was nice to get back to Quito’s warmth and sun.

January 16, 2015

It’s Friday night and the first real rain in about 1-1/2 months here in Quito. The traffic is insane. At 9 p.m. our little street is jammed with cars and trucks trying to avoid the major road a block away. Honking horns and revving engines. I’m glad every night isn’t like this!

January 22, 2015

It’s Christmas! Received seven Christmas cards today, which are date-stamped as arriving in Ecuador Jan 8. Thanks to my quilting group in Eugene (the Red Barn Hooters), and also Steve & LaVisa Arnold, Rachel Williams, Evelyn Rapozo, Noah Millard, Kento Matsumoto,  and Elaine Matchett for giving us Christmas in January.

January 23, 2015

My Spanish tutor just told me she has gotten a coveted full-time position (for six months) teaching Spanish to Peace Corps volunteers. Great for her, not so great for me–she was fantastic. Do I have the discipline to study Spanish on my own without a tutor? Can I find some conversation partners? On the positive side, an Ecuadorean friend from Bible Study Fellowship is picking me up in a few minutes and taking me to her house so I can teach her to make my Overnight Rolls. So I’ll get lots of Spanish today.  (I have been studying on my own, but still really miss my tutor.  Still praying for some conversation partners.)

17 Jody & Pilar

February 2, 2015

Quito friends, I want to buy a used bike, mostly for Ciclo Paseo on Sundays. Doesn’t have to be fancy, just functioning and hopefully enjoyable as I try to keep up with Scott on his big-wheel unicycle. For non-Quito friends, Ciclo Paseo is from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Sunday, and half of a major road is closed to cars for about 20 miles through the length of the city. Very fun!  (We’re still looking for a bike for me.)

February 7, 2015

I love my husband. He’s off to at least one hardware store after looking up the Spanish words for plug, wire nut, hanging lamp, electrical wire, etc. Of course, the dictionary words might not be what the locals use, and then the pantomime or descriptions start. But he’s enjoying the adventure–what a guy!

March 3, 2015

Chiggers; they’re what’s new in our lives. Not from Quito, but from a weekend trip to Mindo and beautiful grassy forest trails. I won’t share photos, but they really like feet and ankles.

March 21, 2015

Grumble, grumble, this is day 10 of a head cold that zaps my energy in the day and keeps me awake coughing at night. I know it’s only temporary and really just a minor thing in the world of illnesses, I’m just very ready to feel like myself again! Prayers are appreciated for a good attitude and the wisdom to know when to rest and when to “do.”  (This cold did finally go away after another week; I was very thankful.)

April 4, 2015

Fruit

There are fruit vendors who drive their pickups up and down streets blasting out a recording that probably says something like, “fruits for sale.” I haven’t had the courage to stop them to buy fruit–it’s much more intimidating than the grocery store. But today my courage was high and I waved one down. Here’s my haul (clockwise from top left): zapotes (for eating 4/$1), Hawaiian papayas (3/$1), pears (6/$2), maracuyas (for juice, 7/$1), and bananas in the center ($.50/bunch). The (female) vendor was super nice, didn’t laugh at my Spanish, and I didn’t have to haul it up the hill in my backpack! (Quito friends, I don’t want to know if I paid too much, ok? Let me enjoy my small victory over timidness.)

April 7, 2015

Learning Spanish is for me a very slow process. Yesterday I was very discouraged. I know I am improving, but it’s hard to see. BUT today at the grocery store standing in a long slow checkout line, I chatted with the lady in front of me (who had lived a number of years in Miami) and the couple behind me (23 years in New York) and they each complimented me on my “good” Spanish! (Their definition of “good” was that they could understand me.) And at the fabric store, a lady who spoke NO Spanish asked me to help her explain to the clerk what kind of fabric she wanted, and I did! Yay! It’s all relative, isn’t it? To her my Spanish was fantastic. Gracias a Dios for encouraging moments.

April 25, 2015

Scott & I experienced a Secret Church simulcast for the first time last night, thanks to the organizing efforts of Sydney Drinkwater. Challenging and well worth the time. The prayer focus this year was on the church in Vietnam, which made me think of Narda Person and other friends with connections to Vietnam.

That’s all for now. I didn’t include three anniversaries (Vjera & Eddie, Scott & me, Luke & Bethany), two birthdays (Luke & Max), six days of an Artistic Challenge with lots of quilt photos, and several posts about a disaster relief team from our organization (Reach Beyond) who have been in Nepal since three days after the big earthquake.  For all those posts, you need to read my Facebook.

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Fanesca

2015 March - 18

Our office had fanesca about a week ago–a new culinary experience for us!  Fanesca is a traditional thick soup served during the Easter season here in the Ecuadorean highlands. Here’s a recipe.

Fanesca has a lot of ingredients, including grains, beans, and vegetables.  The email our office organizer, Jenny, sent out was a complicated list of who was bringing what:

GABYTA
MELLOCOS COCINADOS SIN SAL+ PASTA DE MANÍ
ANGELO
AJOS + LECHES
JUANQUITA
CHOCLO COCINADO SIN SAL + VITA LECHE ENTERA (FUNDA ROJA)
LILI
BACALAO PREVIAMENTE REMOJADO UN DIA ANTES CAMBIAR EL AGUA DOS VECES + VITA LECHE ENTERA (FUNDA ROJA)
SCOTT & JODY 
BACALAO PREVIAMENTE REMOJADO UN DIA ANTES CAMBIAR EL AGUA DOS VECES + LECHE
ALEXITA
BACALAO PREVIAMENTE REMOJADO UN DIA ANTES CAMBIAR EL AGUA DOS VECES + VITA LECHE ENTERA (FUNDA ROJA)
JOHANA
BACALAO PREVIAMENTE REMOJADO UN DIA ANTES CAMBIAR EL AGUA DOS VECES + VITA LECHE ENTERA (FUNDA ROJA)
MARY PAO
SAMBO BIEN COCINADO
WILLI
PAPAS COCINADAS Y APLASTADAS O MAJADAS
LUIS
PAPAS COCINADAS Y APLASTADAS O MAJADAS + LECHUGA
RODRI
CREMA DE LECHE + QUESO
BARRY
FREJOL BLANCO COCINADO SIN SAL
JAIMITO
PAPAS COCINADAS Y APLASTADAS O MAJADAS + PEREJIL+ PIMINTO ROJO
LAURITA 
ZAPALLO + PASTA DE ACHIOTE
TUTI
SAMBO + G[UITIG 
VINI
CHOCHOS PELADOS + MADURO FRITO
THOMAS
HABAS COCINADAS SIN SAL + ARROZ BIEN COCINADOS SIN SAL 
HERMANN
QUESO + MANTEQUILLA
XIMENITA
RAMITAS CEBOLLA BLANCA + HUEVOS COCINADOS
RALPH
G[UITIG + GASEOSA (COLA)
MONI
HIGOS
CECI
HIGO
JENNY
ARVEJAS COCINADAS SIN SAL + MASITAS FRITAS
DIRECCIÓN Y PREPARACIÓN 
LAURITA
ASISTENTES DE COCINA
GABYTA + YO
Our contribution was a liter of milk and 1/2 lb of bacalao (dried salt cod).  I (Jody) bought the bacalao from the market vendor where I buy almonds and pumpkin seeds for my granola.  Here’s a photo of her (in the center) with a friend; bacalao is the dried stuff right in front.  Not surprisingly, it is very salty and pungent.  I soaked it for 24 hours, changing the water twice.
2015 March - 04
I could have bought the bacalao at our local Santa María supermarket; they have had a fanesca display for about a month.
2015 March - 03

The day of the lunch, the kitchen of the Quito Connection (our mission’s guesthouse) was bustling with cooking and other preparations.  Besides fanesca, we also had molo (Ecuadorean mashed potatoes) served on a lettuce leaf and higos dulces (figs cooked in a very sweet panela [raw cane sugar] sauce) with cheese.  It was delicious but very heavy; definitely not to be eaten in the evening.  Here’s a gallery of photos:

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March 2015 Newsletter

What feels familiar to us here in Quito and what feels very different?  Click below to find out:

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Mindo: The Beauty and the Itch

Last weekend we visited Mindo, an ecotourism town about two and a half hours from Quito.  We stayed at Hacienda San Vicente, also known as La Casa Amarilla (the Yellow House).

Highlights were:

  • wonderful coffee, milk, and fruits, grown on the hacienda or on nearby farms
  • an open porch with hummingbird feeders (Ecuador has 135 species of hummingbirds, as opposed to 17 species which breed in North America)
  • surrounding fruit trees with lots of feasting birds
  • private forest trails with flowers, lush vegetation, and even donkeys bringing fresh milk down the mountain
  • friendly and helpful owners

Here are some photos; click on one and you’ll be able to scroll through the gallery of full-size photos.  Then hit “esc” to get back to the blog.

Hummingbirds (Colibrí)

Christmas Bird Count (CBC) (Conteo Navideño Aves)

Trails, Flowers, and Butterflies (Senderos, Flores, y Mariposas)

Mindo

Chiggers (Niguas)

Almost two days after our four-hour hike on the hacienda’s beautiful trails we realized that we had brought home more than memories and photos:  chiggers!  Chiggers are the juvenile or larvae form of tiny mites which live in tall, wet grasses and catch rides on passers-by.  They crawl under your clothes, latch on (but evidently don’t burrow), and chomp away for a few days.  In our case, the result was nasty, itchy welts (about 25 for Scott and 15 for Jody), which persisted for several days.

Lesson learned:  use strong insect repellant on feet and ankles, tuck long pants into your socks, and shower well with lots of soap after each hike.

Want to know more about chiggers?  Wikipedia has a good article, as does MedicineNet.

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December 2014 Newsletter & Prayer Card

Just in time for Christmas–here’s our quarterly update & a new prayer card:

Print version newsletter (pdf)

Mobile device version newsletter (html)

Prayer Card front

Prayer Card back (with our contact information)

Email newsletter signup form

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Pululahua Crater

Last Saturday (Nov 1) we took a day trip to Pululahua Cráter, which is very close to Mitad del Mundo, the “official” equator location.  El sábado pasado (el primer de noviembre) fuimos al Pululahua Cráter, muy cerca de la Mitad del Mundo.

The crater is huge, one of the largest in South America, and about 1,000 ft deep.  And it has farms inside!  El cráter es enorme, uno de los más grandes cráteres en Sudamérica,   ¡hay fincas en el cráter!

We took three buses to get to the road leading up to the crater; here’s Jody hiking up the road. Tomamos tres buses hasta el cráter; aqui Jody está caminando por la calle.

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At the rim we looked down at the countryside below.  Desde el borde del cráter miramos el campo abajo.

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We climbed down into the crater by a very steep path.  Bajamos al cráter por un sendero muy inclinado.  No photos–we were too busy staying upright.  No hay fotos, estamos tratando de no caernos.

The country was beautiful and peaceful, with a strange shaggy pony, flowers, cliffs, and more trails.  El campo era muy lindo, con un burro muy extraño, flores, acantilados, y más senderos.

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Behind Jody in the next photo is the cliff we came down; the notch in the ridge is the view point.  Detrás de Jody en la siguiente foto está el acantilado que bajamos; el vertice en el canto es el punto de la vista.

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We climbed back up the cliff; here’s Jody taking a break about halfway up.  Subimos desde el campo hasta el borde del cráter; aquí estaba Jody descansando un poco, a mitad del viaje.

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At the top, we walked down the road, caught a bus, and visited the Mitad del Mundo (“Middle of the World”).  In the first photo Scott’s sort of in the southern hemisphere and Jody’s sort of in the northern hemisphere.  The monudent was very big.  Después de subir, caminamos por la calle hasta el bus, y fuimos a la Mitad del Mundo.  En la primera foto Scott está en el hemisferio sur y Jody está en el hemisferio norte.  El monumento es muy grande.

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It was a wonderful day–fue un día muy bonito.

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